A short travelogue of a trip to Wales :
Is it
possible to be bored of a color?
I am bored of the color green.
Are fishes
bored of blue? Are dogs bored of black and white? But since they have not seen
anything else, do they realize they are missing something ?
Are we missing
something ?
Are we perpetually fooling ourselves as the most superior creations
but there is a vastness even beyond our imagination?
The only way
to see what we might probably be missing on, in a very minuscule sense indeed, is to
travel. It is the deepest experience we could give ourselves, and especially to a place like Wales.
The name
‘Wales’ had always amused me, and anyway it was in UK so I knew I would not need
to go through the hazzles of visa.
Succumbing to a whimsical travel fever and wanting to throw in my own bit of randomness into the seas of life, I booked the earliest morning bus to Cardiff (Capital city of Wales) the very next
day. With no arrangement of accommodation or travel plans as to how and
where to go except a list of places which really seemed interesting, I set off.
But lo! A 5 hour bus journey later there was life, standing at the bus stop of Cardiff, laughing at me.
I wanted randomness? No child, life is all arranged, you just need to figure
the patterns; and I watched in amusement as these patterns unraveled throughout the trip.
Honestly, it was a tad disappointing in the beginning as my sense of adventure was gone very soon; for even before I could feel that I was in a different
country, a stranger in a different city, there were millions of maps,
brochures, leaflets and guides thrown at
me, putting me completely at ease. Also, the first person I saw in a shop I
walked in to was an Indian, and I was immediately given advice regarding the
best and cheapest places to stay. I enjoyed the camaraderie, but oh damn the
person who first thought of tourism as a business.
Cardiff is a
lovely city, though, except for the green color of its buses. A long walk in the sunny afternoon across the downtown area took me to Cardiff castle and its vastness. It was a soothing time in its gardens imagining its history and the walk up to its tower with lovely views. The air raid shelters there were disturbing though, with blaring radio voices
from the 2nd world war years, faded posters and pictures, and also complete emptiness as you walk along the long dark narrow stretch.
Cardiff bay was a pleasant enough sight after that in the evening, with the brimming restaurants and shops
and the setting sun. I was still feeling weirdly comfortable though, and not like an amused explorer.
And thankfully, soon after that the true adventure actually began.
I had planned to spend most
nights either in travel to save both time and money on lodging, or in bus stops
and railway stations wherever I found a decent enough one. Cardiff bus stop was
pretty decent and it also had a railway station just across from there, but
since I found there was a bus to Pembroke Dock (One of the places on my list), why waste time?
‘You will
reach there at 2.30 a.m, is that OK? Do you have reservations made?’ Asked the
person at the booking. I liked the concern in her voice, and sensing the first
call of unpredictability, I lied yes and took a ticket. I had nothing much to
see in Cardiff anyway (I deliberately avoided the museums which are pretty amazing
I am told; I had had too much for the whole year).
And so I reached Pembroke dock, a
tiny little village at 2.30 in the night. The bus stop was just a sign post near a large Tesco department store. No waiting room, not even a shelter. It was exactly like its name - just a stop.
Oh well :)
Anyway, after searching aimlessly on the dark streets for quite a long time which felt like an after-bedtime tour of the little village, after hilarious broken conversations with Welsh truck drivers resting for a drink on the roads, I did manage to find a Bed and Breakfast before sunrise which had the last available room.
Four hours of solid rest and after that, with brilliant suggestions and tips from the friendly staff, the whole experience was one beautiful poem with perfect punctuation at the right places - and the rest is better expressed through pictures.
A short bus ride from there to the sea, and I began with an amazing 5 hour coastal path hike (part of the Wales Coastal walk of the National Trust) from Pembroke dock to Freshwater East in the morning - a perfect blend of the sea, the mountains, and silence. Every step brought forth a different view, every step made me stop and stare :
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When I reached Freshwater East, I met a retired English and History professor.
All by chance, of course; he was basking in the sun reading a book. I had originally intended to walk on till a place called Tenby, but when I asked him for directions, he told me it would take hours and I wouldn't be able to make it before dark, and he offered me a place to stay for the night. We chatted in the sun, saw the sunset, and then picked up some food from a nearby store and headed to his home. The village is on a cliff overlooking the bay so everywhere we went I got treated to glimpses of sea and sand.
Cigarettes and beer and Life stories shared with aplomb throughout the night with a perfect stranger, randomness or a pattern that fell in place when it just had to? Did I go seeking this moment or did the moment seek me out ?
His little cottage was filled, actually crammed with hundreds of photos and other memorabilia of all his years, and I was lucky to know about an intense life.
A little sleep and then being woken up the next morning with a very classy 'English tea for the lady in bed!', it could not have been better!
After another short walk in the mist along the bay and up another cliff, I caught a bus to Pembroke, and frankly I wasn't ready to be so bowled over by Pembroke castle. Having reached early and being practically the first visitor even before the gates had opened, the mellow magnificence lay there, bare, open to be seen and felt. It has some of the most romantic visuals (even with annoying sightings of the traffic and electric lights from the tower windows. How I hate the jarring juxtaposition of the past and the present that serves no purpose).
Sunrise at Freshwater East :
Pembroke Castle :
Walking around Pembroke Castle, you feel like a living ruin walking among the dead ruins. So caught up was I in these strange feelings that the visit to ancient places make you feel, a feeling that is a sense of nostalgia not your own but borrowed from someone else and you don't know what the memories are, just something deep but intangible, but you know that you are missing something. I ended up missing a couple of buses and a train as well to potential places, spending the afternoon running between bus stop and train station.
I finally caught a bus to a village called Flatford Mill. Not much to boast of there except the historic port, and the names given to the boats are quite amusing - you don't know why you are looking at a boat when it sounded more like it would be a horse or a cat :D
Again, by chance, I met a sailor who had been sailing across the seas for most of his youth. He offered to drive me on to the next town which was Haversfordwest. On the way he showed me another ruin; but this one was like a nameless corpse - it hadn't even been given a proper funeral. It was so covered in moss and undergrowth that we had to struggle quite a lot to find a way in beyond the safety wires. And what we found there was eerie :
I was dropped off at Haversfordwest by evening, and the empty castle here was buzzing with flies. (Wales has castles sprinkled in almost every corner). I enjoyed walking along the streets of the city and its downtown area more. It had some weird funky pubs which I thought I would go to at night but all the walking had taken its toll and the minute I found a B&B I fell asleep like a log.
Next morning as usual started very early with a heavenly chill, and I set off for St. David's Cathedral. It is a couple of hours by bus and the journey is breathtaking to say the least. You meander around green hills, you get glimpses of the sea now and then which seem more like mirages, you see sheep and cows grazing around like the most contented creatures on earth, and all this with a flirty mist that rises up and then comes down magically.
St. David's is a little town and it had began raining when I reached there. It seemed out of a book - the place, the tiniest city central circle ever, the weather, and this glorious structure that I came to at the bend of a tiny path. Spending hours inside the cathedral was a beautiful prelude to what was the most breathtaking place I had come upon until then - Angel's head.
It is part of the National Coastal walk and in one hour it takes you around the mountain where you can watch the sea in all its glory and wonder. The cloudy weather, the slight drizzle and the enthusiastic wind made me feel like I never wanted to go anywhere else but just stay there, listening to the waves. This is kind of what it looked like :
I lost track of time, but somehow, again by chance, I happened to slowly wander back in the nick of time to catch the last bus out of that city.
I had a few more places on my list but they were quite far up north. My energy was seeking a break and so was my wallet. I rode to Cardigan ( why exactly is it so hyped?) and another small town called Fishgaurd. I was quite satisfied and spent and was preparing for the epilogue of the experience. I had no inkling of what was yet to come.
Aberystywth is a seaside town and I had found a convenient bus from there to London at night. It would have been fine only if the previous bus had not run late. Strange how these things and timings work. I reached Aberystywth late at night and needless to say, I had already missed the bus. But what I saw was too overwhelming for me to have any place for tension :
(Image borrowed from google; my phone camera gave up on trying to capture this beauty)
(discoverceredigion.co.uk)
I wandered around at this fairytale like place, sounds of invisible waves crashing on my left and a plethora of lights, lamps and lanterns on my right. It was buzzing with people and for a change I did not find the crowd bothersome; I was too wrapped up in myself and felt so vaporous that I knew I was invisible to them as well.
All the hotels were booked, all the guesthouses over filled. It being the opening weekend of the university there, it was brimming with the young partying folks. Few drunk college kids were loitering and tried following me around as I waded in and out of buildings. Yet, being in a very ethereal state of existence, neither danger nor worry for the night could contaminate me. I kept wandering, on any street I found, any alley, any friendly looking pub. I wandered until the crowds on the streets thinned out, until silence began revisiting her existence. I wandered until I knew I wasn't going to find a room and thought of retracing my way back to the bus stop.
I could probably nap a bit in its shelter.
And then I saw these two women walking towards the corner of the road I was standing in.
Alice and Nicola were spending their customary weekend in their holiday cottage and were just returning back.They instantly knew I was lost, were extremely friendly, and took me around trying to see if there was any room left in some hotels tucked away in corners.
'Why don't you stay with us?'
Well, who would say no in that situation! We packed some Indian dinner on the way and then drove to their cottage.
To say it was one of the best things that has happened is an understatement. They are such amazing, experienced women that I took in an enormous amount of love and wisdom. Nicola and I stayed up very late, speaking about life, about art, about philosophy, about relationships, about us.
It was like finding a long lost friend. In fact, one of the things she told me has struck so deep that a whole article has come out of it, and this is what she said - 'Did we cultivate wheat, or did we allow wheat to cultivate us?' This one sentence opened so many ideas and understanding about our society and lives as the way they are now.
I don't quite remember when we went to sleep, but I remember feeling so cozy, safe in my dreams.
the sun was way up high by the time I awoke (and of course missed the morning bus to London). After brunch they dropped me off to see the castle ruins there and enjoy the ocean a bit. It was quite a sunny day so wandering around felt great.
I caught a train to Birmingham and then a bus to London. The journey back home was uneventful thankfully, though I have to say that since this was the trip of missing buses, I could not NOT miss one last one. I somehow made it home the next day before dusk, with aching feet, drooping eyes but a very lingering emotion of I still don't know what. Just as we take care of life, life takes care of us in strange ways. And this adventure made me more in tune with the internal journeys I would go on but not always notice or appreciate, no matter how rough or how smooth the terrain was.
It has been months, yet the footsteps stay on.
And when I look ahead I see some more trails along the English countryside, probably where Constable painted his hay wain.
Until then, happy journey, to wherever you are heading, body or mind.